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97 SL2 will not start. Any idea’s?

  #1  
Old 08-19-2007, 11:38 PM
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I found oil in one plug wire (halfway up the well). I thought this might be shorting it out. So I installed a new valve cover gasket. Then changed the plugs and plug wires.

It started fine three times, so I thought it was O.K. Later that day I went to the store. Upon returning home it stalled when I backed into the driveway. Once again it will not start.

I can turn the key and hear the fuel pump like normal. The battery and starter are doing their job.

Should the next thing I replace be the fuel filter? And if that has a no good result, the fuel pump?

Or replace the fuel filter. Then if it has a no good result and because the pump can be heard as normal, suspect the injectors?

It has plenty of fuel in the tank. The battery cables are tightly secured. The plugs are gapped correctly. Plug wires secure and properly routed. The timing chain appeared normal when I replaced the valve cover gasket.

What's the next step?
 
  #2  
Old 08-20-2007, 04:55 AM
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Remove coil wires #1 and #4 and have someone crank the engine while you observe for sparks across the coils; the lack of arcing indicates the crank position (CPS) sensor is faulty, replace it. As long as you can hear the fuel pump check that the fuel rail test valve (same as the tire valve) willhave a healthy spray of fuel coming out of it to ensure there's fuel and pressure to the injectors. Cover the valve with a rag while you try this as a good pressurized system will flow readily. The cps' job is to allow the fuel pump to run, ignition to spark, and injectors to pulse. No cps = no fuel/pressure, no ignition, no injector pulses, a dead engine. You'll only be able to crank the engine all day until either the battery dies or the starter burns out. The cps can work one moment and then not work the next moment. Its located above and behind the starter with one 10mm bolt.
 
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:04 AM
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Thanks for the tips. I checked (with help) the #1 and #4 coils for spark. It does have sparks.

I checked the fuel rail valve. It released a good stream. However, I thought it would be more powerful. But, I've never seen this done before.

Five years ago I replaced the CPS. At that time the check engine light came on. The code said it was the problem. But the car was not acting up then. I cannot recall the last time the check engine light came on. But in case I've missed one. I'll see if any codes are still stored.

I'm still open to more good suggestions.
 
  #4  
Old 08-21-2007, 05:01 AM
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I left out a very small but unique detail to '97's - the fuel pump check valve has the tendency to fail maintaining the built up pressures. Instead of replacing the fuel pump assembly where the check valve resides all you need to do is to slightly modify your starting technique; leave the ignition key in the ON/RUN position for a count of two seconds - long enough for the fuel pump to build up some pressure, then proceed to START. The mometary pause will allow the fuel pump to pressurize the system enough for you to start normally. It works for the majority of '97 owners w/o the absolute necessity of replacing the fuel pump. If your car's over100k mileage replace the fuel filter. [img]smileys/smiley2.gif[/img] Edited by: ducky
 
  #5  
Old 08-23-2007, 04:26 AM
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Thanks again.

The car would run, but then quit. Then would not start for about 30 minutes. The check engine light has never come on.

I pulled the CPS. The sensor end was not round as I remember it looking 5 years ago. (It was still flat.) So I foolishly drove it to the local parts house and looked at a new one. The new one was round. After many failed starting attempts and two stalls, the car made it back home.

I installed the CPS and drove it around the neighborhood. Turning it off and starting it several times. Then I let it run for 30 minutes and turned it off. It started right up.

Perhaps this simple fix was the solution?

Again, MANY THANKS.
 
  #6  
Old 08-23-2007, 04:50 PM
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[img]smileys/smiley32.gif[/img] [img]smileys/smiley20.gif[/img] [img]smileys/smiley4.gif[/img]
 
  #7  
Old 02-04-2008, 08:46 PM
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<p class="Msonormal">I have been researching on this site to help me
troubleshoot my problem, which is exactly as the original poster here
describes: oil in the spark plug well (first one on the left if you open
the hood and look at the engine). A friend and I decided maybe it was the valve
cover gasket, so I planned to replace that as well as spark plugs. The car
would crank (turn over). Hoping to get it started and make it about a mile away
to my home to work on the car, I did the following: tonight I took the oily
spark plug out, cleaned it with parts cleaner, checked the gap and lightly
sanded the metal to ensure good spark connection, wiped out the plug well to
clear it of oil, put the plug back in, attempted to start the car, but
now it will not even turn over instead of the cranking
"err-err-err" sound before the car starts, I now get one
continuous "errrrrrrrr", no turning over sound, almost as if thereís
no compression, I donít hear anything going on at all.

Any input is very much appreciated as I really would like to fix it myself before having to pay loads to have it towed and fixed somewhere. Feel free to e-mail me : [email protected] Thanks
Edited by: sw2cam
 
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