2005 Vue stalled and now won't crank
 

Need help with a 05 4 cylinder Vue (all the miles, I know it's high but it's not here to get mileage)Backstory: been having issues with my alternator/battery and ended up having it replaced 2 times in the last two weeks since the first one they installed was faulty. (Shouldn't they test that before installing!?) As soon as I picked the car up I noticed it was running rough but figured it was bad gas and added some gas dry, I literally drove straight home with just a few miles so no big deal.Went to town the next morning, it started stalling at stop signs and I rather annoyed figured I would swing back by the mechanic after class.The stalling got worse to were it was any time I wasn't rolling, at the point I was simply trying to get back to the mechanic but it finally died at the last stop sign and simply refused to restart.
I wasn't even getting a click anymore when I turned the key so after a very nice guy helped me push it from the intersection I tried swapping out to the spare battery and at that point I had all my windows, lights and horn on both batteries but it still refused to start.I had someone in a diesel truck try to jump start me and still no click, he did tow me back to the mechanic tho!They were insisting it was the alternator or the battery again but couldn't explain the stalling, they FINALLY pulled it in the shop this morning (happened last Wednesday but it's not a diesel truck so I kept getting bumped) and both tested ok. Now they want to change out the starter to a tune of $489.....And insist they can't do any other testing until they do. I seriously don't think it's the starter, I think they screwed something up! It was fine until they replaced the alternator.........(Had codes read right before they did the new alternator and the only thing that popped up was 2nd cylinder was misfiring)Anyone have any ideas? I'm seriously considering having it towed back home so I can work on troubleshooting it myself instead of paying them to scratch their heads and go they don't know without throwing parts at it.

Well let us know if you are going to do it yourself. First thing I like is a load test of the battery. That must be good to test the system further.

I'm making plans for borrowing a tow dolly to bring it home! I'm going to give it my best shot to fix it, without throwing random parts at it.
Dig some digging and apparently this mechanic is known for that.

When it gets home, check to see if the inline fuse in the cable leading from the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery is intact. You can do a simple continuity test end to end.

If that inline fuse is burned, no charge from the alternator gets to the battery, and then you are driving with the charge stored in the battery keeping everything alive. That's not what it's for and it won't last long.

Was the charging light / battery light on on the dash while all this was going on? Before you took it to the mechanic? After you got it back? This is important, because it gives us clues as to what the vehicle should have indicated if certain things were the problem.

Prior to the whole mess the battery light came on a few times randomly but would go back off, and it would be fine for about 15 mins then all the lights on my dash would go wild as the battery died. That's when they diagnosed it as the alternator (both auto zone and the mechanic)
After I picked it up from the mechanic and it started stalling I didn't have a battery light, the service engine light did keep flashing on and off as it started to stall.
I found it odd the battery light didn't come on but when I was trying to get it to start that last time I had all my electronics working fine.

Did you get your alternator from Autozone? If so, that's the worst place you can get one from. They sell crap. How do I know? I worked for them as a parts manager for 5 years. I got so many alternator returns that I started testing every alternator I sold before I'd let a customer leave with one. A LOT of them tested bad off the shelf. I'd take it back and ask for a refund. You also need to get your battery load tested and if it tests okay, have it charged. I know it's more money but you really need to purchase a NEW GM alternator from a dealership or maybe NAPA. First, get the battery checked and charged, then do what derf suggested with the fuses. If all tests okay, get that alternator checked. Odds are it's a piece of junk. That's just my two cents after working on my own cars for over 50 years.

Just got this from mechanic
 

I went in yesterday and requested a list of tests they had already performed because supposedly they were going to hook it up to the computer in the shop....
My car hadn't moved from where I had pushed it to park it after I was towed with a tow rope!
Now mind you that when I requested the list she couldn't provide me one, she was going to have to ask the mechanic if he remembered which ones he had done........

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sat...7ee6b0e2e2.png

Why did they not try turning the engine over by hand. I think it's seized.

There's a couple things I'm not sure why they did or didn't do! I'm picking it up Monday with a friend's tow dolly to bring home, is that something I can do at home? I'm also thinking of dropping it off on the top of the hill that's here and see if I can get it to roll start, worst thing that will happen is I have to finish pushing it to the parking area....

If that engine is seized,
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As soon as you put it in gear, you are coupling the transmission to the engine. Since the engine can't spin, neither can the transmission internals. The drive wheels will literally come to a screeching halt as in stop rotating on the spot.

Personally I would not want to be behind the wheel of that vehicle rolling downhill at 30 mi an hour when the drive wheels lock up and the ability to steer just isn't there.

Something's got to give. I say the transmission.