2002 SL2 Fuel Door, MPH, speedo needles, etc not lighting up
 

Most of my instrument panel is lit up but a few weeks ago I noticed that my speedomenter needles, fuel door text, MPH text, and temperature text are no longer lit up. My hunch is that it's a fuse but I can't determine which one.

At age 57 driving to and from work in the dark, I can see the speedometer needle when it crosses one of the lit numbers but I need to see it all the time- eyes aren't what they used to be! :D

Have you tried a good, solid thump on the dash board? Might just be a loose connection. That worked to solve my non working fuel gauge in the LW200 a few weeks ago. Of course, once I get a warm day, I'm going to pull the cluster and look for a loose wire. That's all I can suggest unless you have a warm garage to work in. Then, I'd recommend pulling the cluster and checking the wiring.

Bulbs burn out.

Tru Dat.

Unless it all happened at once, in which case I would suspect wiring or cluster circuit board damage. Would think all the illumination lights would be on the same circuit/fuse

Seems unlikeley that one bulb would be the culprit with the 3 needles on separate gauges (unless it's a really weird bulb- long to span the gauges) and the text (fuel door, MPH, RPM) not lighting up while the actual numbers on the speedometer are still lit up. So no one thinks it might be a fuse? If that is possible, which one would it be? I was messing with the fuses not long ago so might have accidentally pulled out one I thought was inactive, etc.

In the meantime, I'll try the thump- will release frustration if nothing else!

Have not heard that GFRR song in a long time! :)

Well, now that you've enlightened us to the fact that you've been tinkering with the fuses, maybe you did pull one accidently that controls something in the dash. I don't have a clue as to which one it could be, but would suggest you get a bright flashlight and start taking a close look. They SHOULD be labeled under the cover, but sometimes one fuse controls more than it shows.

I wasn't implying it was one bulb that covered all the light you are missing --- simply that unless all that missing light disappeared at the exact same time (say 3 or 4 bulbs went out all at the same time), I wouldn't suspect a fuse as my first step. It took me years to notice that about 4 lights were out on my dash panel in my 97sc2 -- but then again the speedo needle is not lighted on those so I'm sure I would have noticed it sooner if it was.

Per Rube, you can check the underside of the fuse box cover on the kickpanel (IPJB) for ID'ing the fuses. They are usually also listed in the owner's manual as to what they cover.

There are also fuses under the hood in the (UHJB) under hood junction box. Again, the underside of the lid shows the layout. Stay with the minifuses.

Also -- do NOT pull the fuses for security unless you want problems starting the car afterwards, and don NOT pull the radio fuse unless you know the radio unlock code or have disengaged the lock function on the radio.

I did the "thump thing" and I do now have more illumination on the speedo gauge which was the big issue. Still don't think they are lighting up as they should be it is more visible now. So, don't know if that's what did it but I don't argue with success!

Can't remember how long ago- at least a couple of years- but seems I blew a fuse once and replaced it with the one for the cigarette lighter since I didn't need it? So, anyway, I have looked on the panel on passenger side and under the hood, in the owner's manual, etc but I'm just not sure which of a few possibilities the fuse would be that controls that particular portion of the instrument panels. So if anyone might have a clue which fuse it might be-IGN3, etc- I'd like to at least examine that one.

If the thump gave you more illumination, you've got a loose connection. I'd recommend removing the cluster and checking all of the bulbs for a good, tight fit and then take a good look at the cluster plug and connections. A loose ground wire can drive you nuts.

If you do pull the cluster, you might as well replace all the bulbs while you're in there---they have 13 yrs of use on them....also, per Rube -- the bad connection(s) might be a simple as a little corrosion inside the bulb socket, or a corroded/loose ground connection.

And test the new cluster bulbs BEFORE you put it back in. Shock and vibration weaken the filament just like any other incandescent bulb. If they are LED's, then i guess that does not apply--or maybe it does.

Please click on your name in the right hand top corner of the screen, select User CP, then Edit Signature on the left, and create a signature that looks like ours -- name, location, what you'te drivin'. Thanks.