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Just an idea
So I got a 93 Saturun sl 1.9L and I am trying to rally it out. I want to adjust the hole fuel system fuel tank, rail, regular ext, any ideas???.
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Most people use the old s cars for circle rack racing. The SL would need suspension mods and just doesn't have the power for the rally terrain IMHO.
What's the mileage and how much oil does it use? |
Not to sure on the mileage only because the gauges are off and need new ones or check the wiring. The gass; for now I use it for work and back home witch is not to far.
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I just did a oil change.
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I seen many 4 bangers hooked up and I know my can too, just need to figure out the parts needed....
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Never said it couldn't be done.
Just offering up what I know and my perspective.... Most of what little aftermarket support there was for the s cars vanished 15 years ago |
I understand bro. Sorry, but yes it's going to be a mission for this build💯
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Full speed ahead, Cap'n.
Can you do your own fabrication? Maybe hang out at a few circle track races if for no other reason than to find out where these folks are getting parts or which parts they are modding from other vehicles to reach their objectives. It's of course not the same setup you'd use for a rally car, but it's a starting point. Must be a way to get the DOHC rear anti sway bar in there. As you've already figured out, my 97 SC2 w/263k and 95 SC2 w 236k are both bone stock. |
Be wary of too many smog mods, I think I see California plates on your car. The C.A.R.B. does not have a sense of humor. |
Just a thought, but what mods do you have that make you think you need to adjust the fuel system? If the engine is stock and the cams are stock and you don’t have boost, chances are that doesn’t need a fuel system upgrade. The S series cars actually run pretty rich going wide open and people oftentimes will lean the mixture to gain power |
Gain power.
Burn up Valves Bummer |
From what I understand the S cars run like 10:1 rich or something and N/A engines make best power between 12.5:1 and 13:1 AFR... danger only usually exists when approaching 14:1 under heavy load, though richer is usually safer. Situations can arise where due to intake air temp or coolant temp the optimum AFR for best power becomes dangerous with the stock timing map, but the resultant damage is usually the piston, not the exhaust valve |
S cars are in the 9.x:1 range, and it is my understanding that if you lean it out too much, combustion temperature is too high and eventually melts the exhaust valves
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9.x:1 air fuel ratio? Wow, that is pig rich lol... or or were you referencing the static compression ratio? |
Eehhnnnnhhh (buzzer)
I was thinking compr ratio So sorry |
I think most of the S cars were 9.5:1, though with some creative swapping of parts you can arrive at something like 10.2:1 and still technically be “stock”... I think the combo is late rotating assembly with early flat faced valves that gives high compression, but can’t remember 100% since I haven’t had an S car in forever, and if I got one as a project I’d likely be wanting to Ecotec swap it... |
Thank you guys for your input, and feed back I didnt know all that good information💯. Some one mentioned about boost??...., and well how can I boost my car?? What are the steps I could take??. Thank you..
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