...so I thought I'd try posting here.

I've got a 1996 SW2 (Manual) with just shy of 105,000 miles "on the clock".

Right before Christmas, I was driving to a restaurant when my low coolant light began flashing. I immediately pulled over and by the time I was at a stop, the blinking had stopped.

Took it into the Saturn Authorized place and told them about how it had started, blinked half a dozen time and quit, and they said it was probably some dirt. I got the oil changed while I was there an I *think* the tech did whatever they do to reset the code. (Not sure about that)

Fast forward 6 weeks, I'm on my way to the grocery store, same thing happens. A few blinks, by the time I'm stopped it has quit. .

Fast forward to tonight, SAME exact thing.

If there is a problem brewing, I want have it taken care of. But it is almost to the "little boy who cried wolf" stage where it's given false alarms so much that I am starting not to give it much credence.

Any educated theories (and do you think that the coolant light having come on will have thrown a code that might prevent me from passing emissions test?)

I would really hate to flunk and have to take it to the Authorized Saturn Service Center for code clearance. Not only are they outrageously expensive but I have the distinct feeling that they only want me in their shop because it's near the new car showroom where they can try their darndest to sell me a new vehicle rather than fix mine.

Edited to add: I suppose I ought to add that this car has never leaked a drop of coolant, transmission fluid, engine oil, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid...NADA...so even if I hadn't double checked the levels (which I have) if there was a leak and the level was low, I'd certainly notice it.

Also, the temp gauge is sitting right where it should be and always has, so there is no overheating happening.

 

I THINK there is a sensor in the overflow jug that gets dirty over time. I'd remove the jug and try cleaning that sensor. If it's not running hot, losing fluid or showing any obvious leaks, then I don't think it's anything serious.

 

+1 to Rube's postulate. Sensor is in bottom of tank so any sediment or goop that gets down there can hose the sensor. My 95 started doing this about 3 min after startup on cold days this winter. You probably need to pull the expansion tank and sensor and clean them thoroughly. And so do I.

Was your SES light on (not just the flashing low coolant light? If so what was the code?

You will fail inspection if the SES light is on OR if there are Pending Codes that are stored that have not yet triggered the light.

Go to Autozone or similar and get your codes read for free. Get the Pxxx code from the dude if you have any and post them here and we'll try to help you.

I've never heard of anyone getting an SES from this.

 

There is a sensor in the coolant reservoir. The coolant should be up to the seam in the reservoir when cold, if it is an inch or so below, it will give you the low coolant indicator lamp. You will loose a tiny bit of coolant over the years due to evaporation and it gets worse if the seal on the reservoir cap starts to go bad or the cap is loose (less than finger tight).

If your coolant is 5 years old or older, then you need to get it drained and refilled. DO NOT FLUSH, flushing does more damage than good. Just open both the radiator petcock and the block drain and let gravity do its job. Close them up and refill with either a 50/50 premix of either Dexcol or a universal long life coolant or mix your own antifreeze, Dexcol or long life, with distilled water at a 50/50 or richer, up to 2:1 antifreeze to water ratio.

Mix in a separate container and pour into the reservoir until it fills up to the seam in the tank. Run the engine till it gets warm, let it cool and then check the level again.

If you still have the factory heater hoses and radiator hoses, you may want to change them when you do the coolant exchange, same for the thermostat.

 

Thanks for the replies.

No SES, just the blinking low coolant light.

I had the coolant hoses changed about 18 months ago, so those are probably okay.

Saturn did the cooling system at 65,500 so I'm sure it's due for a change.

If there are any pending codes, they'd be from the low coolant light errantly blinking.

I hate to think of taking the car in the the Authorized Saturn Service Center, here just to get those codes cleared.

The last time I was there (the first time the low coolant light flickered) they said my brakes needed attention ($600). I got a second opinion and the rear brakes were only 30% worn. So, they outright lied about that. They also suggested changing my manual transmission fluid. That might not be a bad idea. But they wanted $200+ for that. I got a second opinion on that one too. Haven't had it done yet but the quote was less than half what SASC was asking.

Who knows what they'd want (or try to tell me I needed) if I wanted codes reset.

Thanks again

 

code check and clear at any autozone or similar is FREE.
And if no codes, nothing to clear.

There should not be any codes from that light blinkin'.

Always best to know you have no pending codes before going off to inspection as otherwise it is a waste of time since you will fail.

 

I've been here only a few days and I'm already learning a lot. Thank you all.

When it comes time for the annual emissions test (July, for me) I'll make sure that any pending codes are cleared.

That tip, alone, saved me from possibly failing a test (even though the low coolant light shouldn't throw a code, as was mentioned earlier), having to visit the Authorized Saturn Service Center", here, and getting "hosed" for some unnecessary service.

 

You will need to check those codes at least three driving days before the emissions test. If you reset any codes, then all the test monitors are cleared as well. all monitors must be tested and passed or the test station will fail your vehicle. Three driving days should be enough for all the monitors to be tested.

Don't bother changing your manual transmission fluid. It uses Dexron III ATF. Manual transmission do not get hot like automatic transmission do so the ATf does not break down. It never needs changing and this is one case where it is best left alone. I've got 267k on mine and its still red.

If you had your hoses changes 18 months ago, then they probably replaced the coolant as well so you should be good for another 3.5 years. Since you are not racking up the miles, you need to pay attention to the years and not the miles for your fluids.

 

"If you had your hoses changes 18 months ago, then they probably replaced the coolant as well"

(In my best Homer Simpson imitation)..."D'OH" !!!

Boy, do I feel stupid. That shows how "mechanically challenged" I am. I should have figured that one out on my own !!