Repeated Stalling SL1
#1
03-12-2014, 08:07 AM
Repeated Stalling SL1
Hi, I am new to the forums, and I am in need of some help.
I drive a Manual 2002 SL1 with 160k miles. Over the winter, my gas mileage dropped from around 36-39 mpg to 30 mpg. I thought it was just a winter thing, but it is still steady eat 30 mpg even after it has warmed up a bit.
Recently (past month or two), my car started to stall about 50% at startup if it was recently running for a while, but it started every time from a cold start. I could pump the gas a bit right as it started to prevent it from stalling, and occasionally that would keep it going. At lights, or stop signs, the RPMs would drop from an idle at about 1000 RPM to 200-300 RPM for a second and then go back up.
Today, when I was leaving for work, It stalled about 7 times. If I gave it some gas, it would stay running for a bit, but when I braked or stopped, it would stall.
2-3 weeks ago, I replaced my plugs and wires and got an oil change. The problems were present before I replaced them and the problem has not gotten better or worse sense.
I don't know enough about cars to diagnose his myself, but I don't have a problem doing my own car work, as long as it is something that I can do with the limited supplies that I have. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
I drive a Manual 2002 SL1 with 160k miles. Over the winter, my gas mileage dropped from around 36-39 mpg to 30 mpg. I thought it was just a winter thing, but it is still steady eat 30 mpg even after it has warmed up a bit.
Recently (past month or two), my car started to stall about 50% at startup if it was recently running for a while, but it started every time from a cold start. I could pump the gas a bit right as it started to prevent it from stalling, and occasionally that would keep it going. At lights, or stop signs, the RPMs would drop from an idle at about 1000 RPM to 200-300 RPM for a second and then go back up.
Today, when I was leaving for work, It stalled about 7 times. If I gave it some gas, it would stay running for a bit, but when I braked or stopped, it would stall.
2-3 weeks ago, I replaced my plugs and wires and got an oil change. The problems were present before I replaced them and the problem has not gotten better or worse sense.
I don't know enough about cars to diagnose his myself, but I don't have a problem doing my own car work, as long as it is something that I can do with the limited supplies that I have. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
#2
03-12-2014, 11:52 PM
An idle of 1000 rpm is too high, it should be around 750. This indicates that you have a leaking intake manifold gasket around the #1 cylinder. This was a problem on the 00-02 SL and SL1 models because saturn used a cloth gasket instead of a metal backed one and there is not support for the gasket around the #1 cylinder.
Add to that, there is no bolt for the manifold in the outer upper corner of the manifold, this is where the leak usually occurs. A quick test is to spray something like WD40, carb cleaner, either or propane in this area. If the idle is affected in any way when you do this, that means the gasket is leaking. How its affected is not important and is dependent on what you use, but the fact that it is affected in any way means that it is leaking.
If you find this, do not use a factory gasket, use an aftermarket gasket like a felpro. You should also have a check engine light with a P0507 code.
Add to that, there is no bolt for the manifold in the outer upper corner of the manifold, this is where the leak usually occurs. A quick test is to spray something like WD40, carb cleaner, either or propane in this area. If the idle is affected in any way when you do this, that means the gasket is leaking. How its affected is not important and is dependent on what you use, but the fact that it is affected in any way means that it is leaking.
If you find this, do not use a factory gasket, use an aftermarket gasket like a felpro. You should also have a check engine light with a P0507 code.
#3
03-13-2014, 10:25 AM
I replaced the ETCS, Fuel Filter and cleaned out the Throttle Body and IAC Valve. The IAC seemed to have helped a bit, but not solved my problem. It now does idle around 800 RPM. When I first start is, it goes to 400-500 RPM, feels like it is about to die, then get up to 800 RPM and stays relatively steady.
I have only driven it around the block, so no real road test yet, but when I put it in neutral, the RPMs drop a lot faster than they were, and occasionally feels like stalling, but does not.
I did a check on my error codes, and I only have some O2 sensor problems, which I have had for a few years now. No other error codes.
I have only driven it around the block, so no real road test yet, but when I put it in neutral, the RPMs drop a lot faster than they were, and occasionally feels like stalling, but does not.
I did a check on my error codes, and I only have some O2 sensor problems, which I have had for a few years now. No other error codes.
#4
03-13-2014, 11:31 AM
02 sensor directly feeds back info to the PCM to adjust the air to fuel ratio, so you may want to look into that a bit more.
It's likely that at that mileage the front sensor in the manifold has outlived it's useable lifetime.
I would suggest changing it out with a Denso brand equivalent. My old S cars don't seem to like the Bosch replacement. The OEM is a Denso.
Might help with the idling/stalling --- no guarantees though
Please post the numerical code toy got so we can help you further.
It's likely that at that mileage the front sensor in the manifold has outlived it's useable lifetime.
I would suggest changing it out with a Denso brand equivalent. My old S cars don't seem to like the Bosch replacement. The OEM is a Denso.
Might help with the idling/stalling --- no guarantees though
Please post the numerical code toy got so we can help you further.
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