I think the napa does it's the only part store near me with out taking a ferry to the mainland... I'll mess with it and report my findings back next week

 

Okay so I pulled one plug wire starting from pass side... Pulled one started it ran like ****/worse then moved on to the next one and so on.... The middle two cylinders when pulled (one at a time of course) the car didn't run that much worse at idle but pop
And pinged under higher rpms.... So I decided to swap plug wires to around to see if I had a bad wire... Well I pull the wires off the coil pack and they are green so since they are corroded can I clean them or are they just in need if replacement?

I'm thinking this is why it's running like poop

 

You should check the resistance first, otherwise you are just guessing again. Each wire should have about 4K ohms of resistance. But the fact that two cylinders served by the same coil has the same response to removing the wires tells me that the coil is more likely to be the source of the problem.

But it might not be spark related, it could be a blown head gasket between the #2 and 3 cylinders. You need to do a compression test first.

 

Okay I'll do a comp test I think my father in law has the kit

 

Okay did a compression test. Starting from pass side and moving right. 175psi 178psi 178psi 0psi

 

On the cylinder that read zero, it would have been nice to also have recorded the reading obtained when you squirted some oil into the spark plug hole, an almost natural thing to do when spotting a problem cylinder, to see what the reading would have changed to if anything.
But at face value a reading zero pretty much says there is a drastic problem with the engine that is going to require some major work to get it done. Depending on your abilities and your budget you now have to decide what you want to accomplish in order to do something about it.
Whether you want to fix it yourself, have some one else fix it and/or how much money you want to spend on fixing it vs spending money on something else to replace it with.

 

I payed 200 bucks for car 158k miles car is perfect body/interior 10/10 one owner car.
I'll fix it.

If this was your car. Wat would u start with pull the vavle cover and turn motor over to see if a vavle is stuck or?

 

Based on what I have read on this thread, and to answer this question directly the first thing that I would have done NOW would be to have measured the compression of the cylinder that read zero by adding a couple of squirts of oil, enough to make sure the oil would have spread in side the cylinder to coat the sides of the cylinder. This would have caused the piston rings to seal to the oil and then re-measured the compression to see what if anything happened.
If nothing happened I would assume that there is nothing wrong with the piston and a valve has indeed hung open or is some how damaged. Lacking any other information about the engine that would have been an assumption. that something was wrong with a valve or possibly a head gasket and the piston and it's rings were possibly functional. Why? no noise heard and no other symptoms there was something else wrong.
And as I have to now make a decision as to what to do simply because a simple test said something catastrophic had taken place which is forcing me to disassemble the engine to verify anything I would purchase a service manual (a Chilton or equivalent) from my auto parts store that would essentially tell me how to take something apart I would start by removing the valve cover in preparation of removing the head and verify that the valves are indeed moving as the should and then continue on until the head was off so I could visually inspect something.
And I would prepare my self of being ready for a lot of pure hard work and some expense of dealing with some how repairing what is broken.

 

While I do somewhat agree with Unc about the wet compression test, if a valve is stuck open, I doubt that you'd have compression anyway. I'm more inclined to believe there's a valve problem rather than the rings. I'd go ahead and remove the valve cover and rotate the engine by hand and watch the camshaft to see if the valves are opening and closing. From there, I'd make my decision on what to do next. Since the car seems to be in such great shape, I'd go ahead and either rebuild or replace that engine. It's still a hell of a lot cheaper than making payments on a new car for the next several years. And insurance is cheap on a Saturn too.

 

Okay well if the head has to come off I should do the timing chain.

Any brand the is superior than others or does are napa timing chains good enough.

Also can u reuse the headstuds ?

And thank you both for the imput and advice