No problem, I just create questions in the same topic , so just spoke to you . I do not want to pustikam for new threads =) Thx you

 

Hello all! As far as I know at the SL2 Plastic lights. If I put xenon, not crack and become cloudy headlights? American cars have little light, even in the capital of Russia is not all roads are illuminated and it can end badly.

 

Koster,

All Saturn S Series had plastic light housings with the exception of the 1st Generation SC2s (1991 to 1996), which had the "pop up / folding headlights" like a Chevrolet Corvette. These headlights are sealed beam glass headlights.

So for your car 1992 SL2, yes the headlight housings are plastic.

I assume you are considering adding xenon halogen bulbs, as trying to retrofit HID projectors and purchasing the ballasts and true HID Xenon bulbs will likely cost you more than the car is worth.

Even if you were to buy the ballasts and bulbs, etc, you will BLIND oncoming drivers unless the projector housings are installed. It is essentially illegal in he USA to install HID lighting on your vehicle without the projector housings to keep the light output from blinding oncoming drivers.

I use Xenon Halogen bulbs; they help, and I take all the help I can get.

The biggest help is to get rid of the cloudy haze layer that forms on the surface of your headlight housings. They make special kits for it, but all you really need to do is use a very fine grit rubbing/polishing compound and gently wear the haze off, layer by layer, until the lens is clear. Waxing it after it is clean may help to keep it from hazing up again AS QUICKLY. It WILL haze up again.

The other big help is headlight alignment. Yes it sounds obvious, but you'd be astounded at how much difference little changes can improve your night driving experience.

I try to align mine close to standard (there are many headlight alignment guides on the internet), then point them upwards a bit so I can see further with my low beams. I do this until people start flashing their high beams at me, telling me they are too high and blinding them (I only drive a few miles at a time). I then bring them down until people stop flashing me, so I have optimized the range AND I am not creating danger for oncoming drivers.

If you have never removed the haze on your headlight lenses, go remove it today and take a drive tonight......

 

Big Thx for you Derf!

 

Greetings gentlemen. Once again I need your help. I need new bleeder plug rear brake cylinders. But finding them in Russia is unreal. Can you throw me the part number and models of vehicles which were put exactly the same. And if not difficult parameters bleeder plug.

 

see aftermarket

Speed Bleeder - Rear - comes in sets of 2

PartsTrain.com - Hard to Find Auto Parts and Truck Parts -


Fits all 1991 -1997 S cars (per description)


M7 (7mm) x 1.0 thread, 34mm overall length


_______________________________
Standard Bleeder Screw


http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...Fc2PHwodHEEPzg


Supposedly fits front and rear 1991 -2002 all s cars. Hmmmm dunno

__________________________________________________ ______


Dorman




but states M10 not M7 so one of them is wrong

Will update w Saturn pt num if/when I find it
w

 

M10 is probably for the brake calipers. I have them about 6-7 mm. I think they should come. Thx you Derf!

 

Hello all! After replacing the brake calipers have to bleed the brake system. We pumped it with a friend. But as soon as the engine is started, the brake pedal becomes soft and the car almost does not slow down. We thought that the problem in the brake master cylinder and replace it with the same car - the donor. Again and again pumped the brakes are not any changes. Incidentally, when nashimaesh on the brake pedal while turning the engine, the engine begins to "suffocate". What could be the problem?

 

When things seem to go wrong, the first thing I do is make sure I'm using the right procedure. Am I doing all the right steps in the right order?

With brake systems this is really important and there are many people who work on brakes even for other people who really don't know the proper procedure. If you already know the proper procedure that's great but because there are so many who don't I'm going to review that in this thread for the sake of others who might need the information.

First, are the brakes reassembled properly? Double check every bolt, clip and spring. Are there any parts missing? Is there enough brake fluid? Is it fresh and clean or old and dark?
Second, have the brakes been adjusted properly? Drum brakes will often not bleed properly if they have not had at least a rough adjustment first. Disc brakes of course will just take a lot of pumping to bring back into adjustment.
Third, and a lot of people miss this one, myself included, are the bleeder screws working right? Sometimes they are not being closed completely or the passage is blocked with dirt or rust and fluid and air is not coming out like it should when being bled.
Finally, after the mechanicals are verified to be good, are the steps of bleeding the brakes being done in the right order?

Remember, bleeding the brakes involves getting the brake fluid to move from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinder and out the bleeder screw, thus drawing the trapped air out with it. That can be done by pressurizing the system either by pressing down on the brake pedal or using one of those tools that let you connect an air line to the master cylinder reservoir. You can also use a vacuum pump at the bleeder screw. Each method has it's strengths and weaknesses but they all work.

The most common method however is to just push on the brake pedal with a helper working the bleeder screws. For that to work you must follow the right order of steps and have good communication with your helper.
The general procedure is as follows:
1. Make sure the master cylinder in topped off with brake fluid. Have extra on hand because you'll probably need it.
2. With all the bleeder screws closed, press down on the brake pedal and hold it down.
3. While the brake pedal is down, open the bleeder to allow air and fluid to exit.
4. Keeping the brake pedal down tighten the bleeder screw again to close it.
This is where most people have problems. Once you open the bleeder screw the brake pedal must not be allowed to come up at all until it is closed again. It will go down further when the screw is opened but you can not let it come up until that screw is closed. Otherwise you let more air back into the system and you have to start all over again.
5. Basically, you keep repeating these steps in this order until air stops coming out with the fluid. Then you switch to the next wheel and repeat these steps there. After you have done this with all four wheels you should have a firm brake pedal and no air should be coming out when the screw is opened, only fluid.
Remember to check the master cylinder from time to time making sure you always have enough fluid in there. If you let it get too low you will cause air to get sucked into the system and have to start all over again. I know, I've done that.
The important thing is going in the right order: pedal down, open screw, close screw, pedal up, repeat.

Again if this is old news to you, I hope you appreciate the chance to educate others who might need this information, if not then thanks for the chance to help.

 

Regarding the engine "suffocating" It's possible you have a leaky brake booster diaphragm. The brake booster is operated by engine vacuum. If you're holding the brake pedal down while trying to start the engine you are creating a demand for vacuum which the engine can only satisfy by drawing the air out of the booster, thus reducing the amount of air it's drawing through the throttle since the port for it is on the intake manifold. A leaky brake booster can cause the engine to run lean, rough, or have the wrong idle speed.