Hi-

I'm looking for help and found this. My 97 SL2 has been burning oil which I can see is common-but I can live with that (knew this was a problem when I bought it
4 years ago.)

Now my problem is it barely passed smog the 2nd time, after failing the
1st, after replacing the catalytic converter. It seems logical that the
excess oil burned might have something to do with this. I was advised
to sell my car (by someone who I am sure is not as fond of it as I.)

Any advice anyone? I really don't want to get rid of it-but 2 years ago it barely passed on emissions as well.
Edited by: mom7x

 

What state are you in and can you post the emissions print-out? The replacement catcon that didn't solve the inspection points to another sensor, perhaps something as simple as the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS), EGR valve, or sticking throttle.There are many owners with oil useage that still pass emissions so yours can if you provide some more information.


1-Does the car start up, idle around 1100-1200 rpm until warmed up and idle at 800-900 rpm? No, it may be the coolant sensor/two-wire connector.


2-Does the car start up with a low idle needing pedal input to keep the rpms up until the engine is warmed up? Yes, it may be the coolant sensor/two-wire connector.


3-Does the engine stumble. hesitate, border on stalling at times? It may be from the EGR valve that needs cleaning.


The coolant sensor and Egr valve can cause your car to fail emissions especially if you have the original plastic tipped coolant sensor. The replacement is brass and trouble-free. If the tw-wire connector is corroded it must be replaced either with a junk yard one from the intake air temperature sensor connector or the dealer's $30 part.

 

I'm in California-
There are no stalling, idling problems that I can tell.
HC is 65 (66 max-1st test before new cat was 72) @15 mph
HC is 29 (49 max-1st test before new cat was 19-it went up!)@25 mph.

CO and NO both went down considerably after the new cat.

Just wondering if there is something I should be doing differently to get the HC down, or I should do in the 2 years before the next smog.

By the way, the car was cold when it was smogged. It wasn't until afterwards I was told it should be hot before smogging.

Thanks for your reply.

 

The car should be HOT with the A/C off so the cooling fan DOES NOT run and bring the operating temps down.

 

My cat had 180,000 miles on it and barely had any guts left inside and still passed emissions. (for what it's worth) So I'm guessing thenew cat can't correct the root cause.Edited by: MINICooperS

 

To all-
Thanks for your replies. I have come to the conclusion that the new cat was really unnecessary, but it did lower substantially the other numbers. Since my saturn has cost me little in repairs, I can't complain. Plus, even though it barely passed, it still passed.
Since it only takes 5 minutes in our little town to get to the smog stations, I have made a note to go into the larger city about 45 miles away to get smogged the next time--not only will the cat be hot (normal August weather is 90/100 degrees), but it's cheaper to get it done there! (Small town+ little competition=high prices!) Also considering some gas additives which may help....or buying better gas (name brand vs. generic) from time to time.

 

here in CT a vehicle with OB2 does not get checked be a sniffer on the tailpipe. they hook it up to the on board computer and scan the vheicle. if in your state they do put a sniffer on the tail pipe. i suggest either only put 3 quarts of oil into the vehicle right befor the emissions and then add the last 1 quart after emissions. you can also put in thick oil like 10W-40 just for the emissions test and then after the emissions test is done change it back to the vehicles normal 5W-30.