If there were gross vac leaks you'd likely see it in the idle both cold (problematic) AND warm (rock steady at 750).

Upon further re reading of orig post, did you rebuild this at 190k upon acquisition or at 193K after driving for 3k with no cold start idle issues? Either way, if there was only 3K on the rebuild and the head rebuild was done properly, there shouldn't be a need to run seafoam through it as it should not be full of buildup. I suppose if something in the head is hanging up then this could be an issue of buildup but I would file that under the category of someone messing up the head during rebuild with a faulty valve, valve guide, valve spring or valve seal. I doubt it was on purpose.

Let's hope the GM ects works out.

Have you checked to see if the new plug wires meet the saturn specs? Less than 12K ohms. Check when cold. Resistance is temp sensitive. It's a longshot, but you are using aftermarket wires, so anything is possible if they marginally meet spec when warm. Could have an intermittent no spark condition going on at low temps. Might as well check when you pull them to do the cold compression test. Plus you could even do a spark test at the same time.

Not trying to insult your intelligence -- I simply don't know what you've already tried during cold conditions in terms of "functionality tests".

Plus you can do this after the car cools down and it gets cold at night. Easier to see the spark and its strength in the dark anyway.

Also, could you PLEASE go to the user control panel and fill out your signature to match the style of the other users (like me)?

Thanks

 

Welcome to The Saturn Forum ..... what do you drive, where do you live, what's your first name? Top right next to your user name....click on the drop down and add that info to your signature.

After you reach 25 posts, send me a jpg that you would like as your avatar.sw2cam@yahoo.com*-- subject avatar, and include your username so I know who to add it to. Post a few pictures of your Saturn right here in your intro thread, we all like pictures. Get your post count up to 10 asap or your account will be shut down, just the rules of the road here. Again welcome to The Saturn Forum.

 

Heya -- how's it coming?

Please keep on posting --- we wanna help--and I am quite intrigued by your situation.

Oh, by the way, I missed your build link in your original post.....NICE pics and writeup.... We might just borrow it for a sticky if you hang around.....

 

Hey Derf, thanks for the follow up.


Well......

This past Saturday I pulled out the Battery Charger and put the charger on the "Start" option to ensure the battery had enough juice to keep the starter going while I cranked the engine for the compression test. After testing all four cylinders, and marking the results, I pulled out another compression tester, just to verify my dismal results. Yup, the initial compression results were correct..... they all sucked.

Compression Results

Cold Engine
Cylinder: 4 3 2 1
Cold Engine 125 124 120 115
Warm Engine 120 120 115 110

So, apparently my previous engine rebuild wasn't as successfully as I initially thought. While trying to save money, I forwent the typical cylinder wall boring and honing. While I did drill the pistons for Oil Consumption Prevention (which actually did work), the compression was pretty crappy. Now, this may be due to the head or the valves, I don't know. Either way, it would be a complete rebuild.


SO, what do I do from here....

Since I tow with this car (Harbor Freight Trailer with a Dirt bike and sometimes some camping gear), I've been looking for a DOHC engine to swap in. But then, again, the doors leak and it's an ODB1 computer, and.....well, you know, how much money do I keep sinking into an engine that is under 100HP and so-on, and so-on, and so-on.


So, I've done some more research and decided that I can pick up a '97 Saturn SC2 with a DOHC and 5-speed in it. Based upon my research, my suspension, Fuel pump, Fuel Filter, pretty much everything in this car including the rear disc brakes will swap over to this '97. The DOHC engine will be rebuilt, but this time, I'll have to professionally bored out and have the head redone with new valves....I may consider getting the 1993 "Flat Faced" valves to up the compression a tad. In fact, I may even see if I can use the Valves from my '93 in the '97 head.

With most of my parts being able to swap to the 1997, I'll have a pretty good running car.

What do you all think?

 

Thanks.

I'll be hanging around. In fact, I'll start a build thread on my '97 Saturn SC2. The engine will be gone through and reinstalled back into the cleaned up car, which should give me a another 200k miles from the car. If you check my other posts on the other site, you'll see that I do like to document my work.

 

I've updated my profile, but I can't seem to get my Avatar to work correctly. I've uploaded two different Avatars, but in each case the upload reports to have failed, even though I can see the Avatar in my profile. Ehh, oh well. Other issues to attend.

I've updated my profile message to include a few tidbits about me....all while keeping it under 1000 characters....

 

For whatever strange reason, only admins can add avatars. Once you get to 25 posts, emails sw2cam a photo for an avatar and he'll throw it in there.

I suspected compression was at least part of the problem when you mentioned multiple misfires while cold...

You can do a leakdown test to see if it is rings or valves.
Did you have the head just cleaned or reconditioned/rebuilt. If you find the head to be the issue then go get them to fix it properly or demand a refund.
Like I said, check the invoice and see what they actually did and DIDN'T do.

Also, before committing to a swap, read

Swap guide

https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/sa...ap-guide-9743/

 

I won't be doing an engine swap. It's just easier to have the DOHC from the 97 rebuilt and reinstalled back into the '97. I'll take most of the parts from the '93 and put them on the '97.....

 

Sorry I misinterpreted "swapping in". My bad.

The reason I suggested you read the swap guide is because it is rich in compatibility info for different components across the different years.

For example you cannot swap in your new egr valve from the 93 as it is vacuum driven and the 97 uses an electronically controlled egr.

It's worth the read.

 

Since this is a rebuild, have you gone back to check the timing chain? Everything you have written indicated a timing chain that is exactly one tooth off.