95 SL1 owner reporting in
#11
03-25-2016, 10:18 PM
Octavious indeed covered it.
I however feel as though I am going to overcover it in gruesome detail -- just because......
Indeed AC on should cause aux radiator fan to run constantly based on the fan being commanded on by the PCM. This closes the fan relay and completes the electrical circuit for the fan, which then runs.
If fan does not turn on, swap fan relay in underhood junction box w another of exact same type (there's one in there). If that works, replace relay. If that doesn't work, do the direct to battery fan test.
Yes I troubleshoot in the opposite direction on simple stuff.
The fan will also come on when the PCM infers a temp from the resistance of the ECTS that is lower than x (don't remember x ). On most temp gauges this corresponds to right near the H tick and nudging into the red. This is often disconcerting for "new to you" S car owners, but is actually the norm.
The ECTS should be pulled on an ice cold engine and checked to see if it is the brass one described above. If the squeeze connector shows signs of corrosion or green, replace both the ECTS and connector using OEM GM parts per Octavious.
If the ECTS is defective or connector corroded, the PCM's inferred temp reading will be wrong, and usually high, so the PCM will never tell the fan to turn on ---resulting in the car overheating
I believe that is enough overkill for now.....
I however feel as though I am going to overcover it in gruesome detail -- just because......
Indeed AC on should cause aux radiator fan to run constantly based on the fan being commanded on by the PCM. This closes the fan relay and completes the electrical circuit for the fan, which then runs.
If fan does not turn on, swap fan relay in underhood junction box w another of exact same type (there's one in there). If that works, replace relay. If that doesn't work, do the direct to battery fan test.
Yes I troubleshoot in the opposite direction on simple stuff.
The fan will also come on when the PCM infers a temp from the resistance of the ECTS that is lower than x (don't remember x ). On most temp gauges this corresponds to right near the H tick and nudging into the red. This is often disconcerting for "new to you" S car owners, but is actually the norm.
The ECTS should be pulled on an ice cold engine and checked to see if it is the brass one described above. If the squeeze connector shows signs of corrosion or green, replace both the ECTS and connector using OEM GM parts per Octavious.
If the ECTS is defective or connector corroded, the PCM's inferred temp reading will be wrong, and usually high, so the PCM will never tell the fan to turn on ---resulting in the car overheating
I believe that is enough overkill for now.....
#12
03-25-2016, 10:35 PM
a)The "louder with AC on" noise is likely the fan kicking in (which is a good thing.
b)Reading OBD I codes -- the paperclip method
https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/sa...ng-codes-3062/
c) check your oil every other day until you figure out how much it is burning, if any, per unit time. Using synthetic will reduce the amount of oil you go through, but of course is more expensive.
d) sounds like a combination of the rods being bound up and possibly the cylinder being stuck. Try some graphite powder in the the cyl (ask for it at the key cutting counter at home depot)
b)Reading OBD I codes -- the paperclip method
https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/sa...ng-codes-3062/
c) check your oil every other day until you figure out how much it is burning, if any, per unit time. Using synthetic will reduce the amount of oil you go through, but of course is more expensive.
d) sounds like a combination of the rods being bound up and possibly the cylinder being stuck. Try some graphite powder in the the cyl (ask for it at the key cutting counter at home depot)
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