2, 22, 442, 351, 396. I used less than one can.

In other thrilling news, my diag dongle came back to life! I used it for at least an hour straight w no issues.

I should do a review on it and the DIAG SW I'm using. The SW is getting crazy detailed as to what you can monitor in real time. I found the PIDs for the GM EGR valve so maybe just maybe I can see what's what.

I even found an error code on the new Escape that has to do with the (GEM) Generic Electronics Module (translation: whole lotta stuff going on in here). It would need a Ford Tech's tool to pinpoint what part of the thing is hosed.

Extended warranties and free diag ware are fun. I just keep uncovering more things I can monitor, watch, diag, and every time I search for A I stumble across B and C.
Can't learn fast enough.

 

And they called ME a nerd when I was a kid in school! LOL

 

And you still are

 

Maybe it has something to do with my forum friends???

 

Well, while I was reading the Ford Escape codes after doing the Satty, apparently I was so excited to have the diag dongle diag ing that I left the Satty key in ACC.

Overnight.

Then I went to jump the Satty w the Ford with my 20 year old but beefy thick jumper cables. Thin layer of corrosion--seemingly just enough to not make solid connections.

Sandpaper.

Damn side terminal Satty batteries drive me nuts since there are many ways to short the battery with the protruding end of the jumper cable.

Then I look under the Escape's hood. Pull of the "engine cover" POS. What do I find?

PLASTIC.
EVERYTHING
EVERYWHERE.

Frame painted everywhere.

Finally find one of TWO ground straps in range to clip to and start Satty.
-------------
So my voodoo P1404 test is now negated by the battery drain.

Hopefully I do not have the need to try it again.

 

Get the battery charger out and charge the battery fully, derf. Depending on how low it go, the alternator may not get it full again. Especially if it has some age to it (the battery).

 

Don't own one.

The ability to hold what is considered a "full" charge actually has to do with the electrochemical reactions going on inside the battery. Every time you drain a battery, the cells in the battery lose some of their ability to store charge. The alternator will feed the current to the battery at 14.4 V. It's not a question of whether the alternator can supply enough current -- it's a question of whether the battery can store (hold) the charge being sent to it

 

True dat. So take it to your local auto parts store and let them load test it. I think Ford has some of the best looking vehicles being sold nowadays, but I've never found them to be all that reliable. I just can't pull the trigger on a Ford. I'm a die hard Mopar man, but since FCA has taken over, I'm starting to lean back towards Toyota.

 

Well, I didn't drive the SC2 for a week after I jump started it and FORGOT TO ENSURE IT RESTARTED after letting it recharge for a while. Came back a week later. Turned key--got a few clicks.

Battery V:

3.3V

Battery replaced

Checked it 3 times. Got the 1404.

Tried the voodoo mentioned above (remove egr connector, clear code and immediately disconnect from diag port. Then reconnect egr wiring and drive as usual.

It actually worked or the invisible carbon buildup finally disappeared.

Seems to trigger a closed position relearn at next key on.