Hi Everyone new guy here, just wanted to drop some info on a build I am doing for a stock car class at my home track dominated by saturns and Integras. 94 sc2 fully stripped, trying to budget so bought a prefab cage out of an identical car... other then that everything brand new. 14x7 bassett wheels with 205/60 Federal tires (one of few tires allowed) removed AC and heater core system, replaced starter, flywheel, clutch, plugs & wires, full synthetic oil change, plus all new safety equipment by racequip. LMK if you got any tips for a newb... 3/8 asphalt oval track
Here is Part 1 video
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Welcome.

It's clear you're new to the forum.
What's not clear is if you are new to Saturns.
So here's the shpeeil we hand to the noobs - even if you are not a Saturn Noob, they still may be helpful suggestions.

1) Change 2 wire ECTS AND CONNECTOR (in the head, driver's side. Squeeze connector. Use an ECTS and replacement connector pigtail sourced from a GM dealer/AC Delco. $45. Aftermarket ECTS's for these cars do NOT have the proper temp vs resistance response, thus leading the PCM to think the coolant is at a different temp, causing the PCM to alter the A/F ratio to account for that. A good 85% of drivability issues with the S cars are related to bogus temperature data inferred from crap ECtS sensors.

2) Use STOCK NGK BKR5ESA-11 = GM part number 21025103 = NGK 5643 (new number, same plug)spark plugs. Good old fashioned copper plugs gapped at 0.040".

The ignition system in the S cars was not designed for Platinum, Iridium, Kryptonium, Expensium, Exoticum, hepta-tipped plugs, or self aware plugs.
It's been 26 years and people still argue over this. Whoever designed this engine chose those plugs for a reason. People claim all kinds of bull. Others get nasty misfire issues.

It ain't broke so don't fix it. Since stock class, assuming stock wires.

3) Consider replacing the coolant reservoir tank while you can buy one. Yours is likely well into dry rot and if it chafes against anything like the frame it may wear a pinhole in it. Additionally, they are known to split open at the middle seam where top meets bottom half. If you plan to keep this vehicle in operation for a good length of time, better safe then sorry.

4) Consider welding your differential pin, since it will fly through the tranny case if you have severe wheel slip. Known weakness of these trannys. Labor intensive due to dropping tranny/disassembly/welding/reassembling/reattaching tranny.

5) Use the DENSO brand equivalent of the GM front O2 sensor. The GM OEM part is a DENSO, but the Denso branded O2 sensor costs 1/2 of the price of the ACDELCO version.

w calif emissions --DENSO 2341030 {#21022009 GM Original part number). This is a 94 MY + Cali emissions specific sensor

w/o Cali emiss - DENSO 2341029 (#21020136 GM orig part number). specific to 91-94 non cali emiss

Check sticker on front crossmember to figure out which one you need.

6) Suspension: It will take a bit of a beating. Keep an eye on
a) the trailing arms back by the bushings in back
b) rear sway bar end links
c) LCA bushings
d) Front Sway bar bushings (especially if the car is walking back and forth on you at higher speeds)
e) many folks use KYB GR-2 's for struts all around. The fronts are twice as stiff as stock.

 

Great list, love it thank you! 3+4 real good tip.. Trying to just run mid field this season because it is so competitive..there are several "stock" 10k saturns out there so the top 5 is defined lol. I have no previous saturn experience... per my name haha
Have a ton invested in a car that could be destroyed by turn 1 lap 1 so going at it kind of conservatively at the moment. Mostly leaving suspension stock for first few races. going to attempt to slot the strut tower as I have seen many do.. Anyone have experience with that?


Here is about half the running field

 

Just an update, cage is 90% in and done.. had to make a few tweaks to please tech. Mounted the battery in passenger floor area where the heater core stuff was. Screwed a batt. box to the floor with self tappers, then used some better hardware to make a strap mount to hold the whole thing. Installed a longcare battery switch on a small panel we welded to the cage. Getting my tires shaved and mounted this week.Last night got my hood pins drilled and mounted.Mounted fuel tank in trunk and cut the floor pan out, replacing the plastic fuel line for the supply from the tank all the way to the stock filter and plan on adapting the the stock plastic return line to a small new piece of regular fuel hose. Going with a 12 gallon jazz cell with a built in sub fuel pump, Waiting on final cage tweaks, then cage/ interior get painted, then roof goes back on, then paint and vinyl for exterior. All will be documented in my sc2 build part 2 video on my Channel.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChT...4sENmC6zwUgkQw Please subscribe.. and thanks for watching

 

Sounds like fun. I can tell you when it comes time for suspension the kyb struts are the way to go, and for stiffer springs i would reccomend the h+r sports. Car took turns very nice after that.
+1 on welding the diff pin, ive sent a mp3 to transmission heaven before hahaha.

Swap Guide - SaturnWiki.net
a great resource to have when you have to go find junkyard parts.

Keep an eye on that oil level too, theyre known for burning it good once you reach a certian point. And because your going racing, I would look into having an extra radiator on hand or swapping in one of the all aluminum aftermarket honda rads, they like to pop those plastic side caps.

If the motor is still out I would change the water pump too (not sure on what your mileage is) but mine went out pissing after a night at test and tune. A bit of a tight fit with motor in

 

I def agree with the kyb all around! will be one of the first upgrades I am sure... unfortunately motor is back in, and as far as the wp goes we left it alone for now sense car has been babied most of its life... we will see what a few hard runs does to it. Luckily I have 2 practices a month before the first race. I will look into that dif pin Thank you very helpful.

 

Welcome to the forum. I sure wish I had money to **** away on something fun like that. Hell, I just wish I money to **** away on a vacation to PA to see derf! LOL

 

Mr. Seed with a little hard work anything is possible lol. My wife and I decided no kids just race cars... been working 80 hours, living off poptarts, and living in a tiny condo for years. I dont have any friends or fam into racing so its all the hardway. saved 3500 to buy car build it and buy a used trailer... Well spent it all 100% on the car and now have to finance a new trailer as I cant borrow friends forever. My enduro days were a lot cheaper lol

smacktober6.jpg

 

You REALLY want to take care of that Diff pin before too many laps.....a good tranny shop should be able to do it for a reasonable price...

 

Cant say I haven't been warned lol...buddy has 3 mp3s in his basement.Not terribly worried. JW are people really blowing those things out at low mileage...car has never/ will never need to do a 1st gear launch or burnout? looked up the after effects... def a tranyy loss almost every time it would seem. Would have done it 5 weeks ago if I had the knowledge when it was out...Have legit seen cars totaled on there debut so I am going to hold off puting any more time into it. would be no prob to swap tranny in between races. Who knows may have to pull it for something else after first practice, if so I will address it without doubt. Right now gotta turn this thing back into a car...really appreciate the advice