So I found and bought a fog light switch panel for my Saturn at a local junk yard. Popped it into the dash and hit the button, no fog lights. The light on the button lights up, so the button is getting power. There is a fuse and a relay for the lights in the fuse box, however, the lights don't come on. I'm hoping someone has access to a wiring diagram so I can see what my problem is.

 

I have something that should suffice but I need to go to bed.
Will address in the morning

Critical question -- are there wires from the harness that actually run to that fog switch? If so, what colors?

 

I'll have an answer for you derf after teaching this afternoon.

 

Wiring diagram shows

1) Inside the Inst panel switch for the fog lamp switch is a Fog switch which contains Solid State circuitry inside the that allows it to perform its necessary functions like turning off high beams when fogs turned on.

2) YEL wire going to the under hood Junction box(UHJB) to the Fog Lamp Relay, then out of the UHJB as a BRN wire, runs through the IP junction box (IPJB) but NOT through a fuse, and back to the switch as a BRN wire

NOTE: The fog lamp fuse is immediately upstream from the Fog lamp relay, and is fed by an "always hot" power feed. The fog lamp fuse is therefore in the UHJB

3) PNK wire comes out of Fog switch and branches into two, one to each High Beam circuit, in order to disable the high beams when the Fog lights are turned on

4) The BLK wire goes into I/P splice pack 1 and to ground.

Yellow
Brown
Pink
Black

 

Tests performed with key on, low beams on.

1. I have different wires going to my fog light switch (pictured below -- fog light is 4 wire, dimmer is 3 wire).

2. The indicator light on the button lights up when the button is pressed.

3. The indicator light turns off when the high beams are selected, and turns back on when the high beams are off.

4. I can hear the relay in the fuse box clicking as I press the fog light button.

5. To check the relay, I switched the relay next to it and repeated the test. Again, the relay clicks with the press of the button.

The fog lights didn't turn on with any of these tests. And we've had storms coming through the area so I'm not crawling underneath today with a test light to poke at the wires at the lights.

EDIT: Is there a separate fuse for the fog lights separate from the Under Hood Junction Box? Sorry, Derf, I just re-read your post and focused on the UHJB relay.

EDITEDIT: I had a duh moment there. Remember, I'm a professional.....at something, just not auto repair.

I checked the box again and found the 10 watt fuse. Checked with my test light and it was getting power. Popped it out and it was intact. Replaced it with the spare 10 w fuse. Still no lights.

 

When the fog relay closes it passes current to 2 PPL wires that leave the UHJB separately. Current runs through each fog lamp bulb, then exits the bulb socket via a BLK wire for both; the LEFT fog BLK wire travels back to the UHJB; the RIGHT fog BLK wire runs directly to the Right Forward Lamp Ground Splice Pack for its ground. An additional BLK (ground) wire emerges from said splice pack and connects to the UHJB at a location separate from that of the L side. This ground connection is then shared within the UHJB to the two fog lamp circuits, and so you have a complete electrical circuit.


__________
1) are there any bulbs in the sockets? If no, get some cheapies or spring for the ones you want with the confidence you can fix this.


2) If you have 12V measured to a separate ground (NOT across the socket) on the purple wires with the fog switch turned on, then you know you are good on the power side of the circuit


Which leaves only the ground side wiring and a (tiny) possibility of switch issues, though the other functions seem fine and no fuses are blown.


The sneaky part is that if the right side socket is corroded badly enough or the ground connection to this socket is open, you lose your ground for BOTH fog lights and neither will work


My personal guess is that the bulbs in it are burned out, there are no bulbs and the sockets are corroded, or the circuit has lost its ground connection to the splice pack.

 

It sounds like the grounds are shared with other things, and I'm not having any other electrical issues, but I'll take a peek.

I need to refurbish the lenses anyway. I'll take out the lights and replace the bulbs, clean out the swampy light and scrub the lenses. And see if that does anything.

 

It looks like I have to remove the fender lining to get at the bolts attaching the fog light assembly to the car. I cannot get at them from underneath, at least with my big meat hands.

 

I hate resurrecting these old threads, but did your big meat hands figure out an easy way to remove that bumper grille? Can't find any videos or info anywhere about how to get her out without my stupid meat hands harming the bumper. I'm putting in aftermarket, factory style fog lamps and an OEM switch. I've got the switch that goes next to the light dimmer, the fog lamp housings, the h11 harnesses to marry to the bulbs, the bumper grille with fog lamp openings, plenty of wire-solder-heat shrink tube. I just need to know what relay (Duralast part #19264?) and fuse size (25 amp?) to use. Sorry, I know this isn't the precise location for my vehicle, but mine is a 2005 Ion sedan 2 if that helps.

 

Maybe a set of ramps will help you get under the car. I remove my bumper cover to work on the lights on my car, it comes off pretty simply. Mine is 6 push pins and 6 screws and it pulls off. I would imagine your Ion would be similar. Maybe Bonestock will chime in, he is our Ion expert. Don’t expect an answer from Dave, he hasn’t posted since 9/16.