Figured Id just share my experience, since I just pulled the engine out. I had a broke timing chain so I pulled the head off while the engine was still in the car. Some may not wish to do that, so some of my steps may be unessecary for others.

I disconnected the battery. Take all the air intake stuff off. Theres a bunch of sensors I labeled each harness with a marker and duct tape.

I then un bolted the main "bundle" of wires that loops around the valve cover, undid all the sensors and labeled the harnesses as well.

Pulled the fuel rail out. pushed it aside left the injectors in the rail. (u may want to run the engine out of fuel first)

Now intake manifold, undid throttle cables, and un bolted it.


Then I separated the exhaust manifold from the head. But I left the header on the exhaust pipe, it flexes and theres no need to remove it from the car.

I removed the cam driven power steering pump from the driver side of the head. I just tucked it up and out of the way.

At this point I decided to remove the head to inspect the valves to make a decision to save the head, get another head, or get a whole new engine.

So I removed the coil pack from the center of the valve cover, un plugged it put it in the trunk. Then removed the valve cover.

theres some collant lines that need to be disconnected from the head.

Theres a bunch of head bolts to un do in between the cams I think they are 18 or 19mm. I think there is 10. there is also 4 small metric 12 point bolts on the cam sprocket end of the head. 2 are outside, 2 are inside underneath the tips of the chain guides. The outside 2 come out easy. The inside ones are slightly hidden. The fire wall side chain guide can just be pushed over and you can remove that 12 pt bolt.(if you have a broke timing chain) The radiator side chain guide is stationary, and needs the top bolt removed so it can be pushed over. to get that bolt out there is a plug on the outside of the head that you have to remove with an allen key, then u can remove the guide bolt with a socket and extension, then you can push that guide out of the way and have space to remove the last 12 point head bolt.


I pulled the head and saw 14 of my 16 valves were bent

I put a jack under the oil pan took up some weight. Removed the passenger side motor mount. and raised the engine a little to release the belt tensioner, and removed the belt.

Then removed the altenator, and ac pump. I left the hoses on the ac just pushed the pump out of the way. then removed the starter.

once the starter is removed, u can acess the 3 flexplate bolts, and remove them.

At this point I put 2 bolts back in the block and took the weight of the engine with my engine lift. I removed the jack from the bottom.

I then jacked and removed the passenger side tire. there is a hidden mount right there from the transaxel to the block. I just un did the block bolts, and the only way I could do it was to remove the tire.

Now to disconnect the bell housing. there is 7 bolts. 6 are obvious 1 is hidden. you have 2 obvious bolts at the top, 1 on either side around the middle, and 2 at the bottom. there is 1 hidden one on the driver side, fire wall side of block, r underneath the union where the to coolant hoses come to a union type a thing. I might take a picture of it later and add it to this thread. It caused me a lot of headache along with the transaxel mount.

I raised the engine, and was able to rock it free, and finagle the exhaust manifold, main wiring harness, and ac pump to get everything free.

simple. hope this helps others.